Havana
in Cuba

Time moves differently in Havana. The broad Malecón seawall catches the spray at dusk while old men play dominoes nearby, completely unbothered. Whole streets look as though the 1950s simply forgot to leave: the Chevrolets, the peeling facades, the particular shade of ochre on a crumbling colonial building catching the afternoon light. It is not a city that performs for tourists so much as one that continues, magnificently, to be itself. Go with curiosity, leave the itinerary loose, and let the music find you.