charlie is run by a younger team headed up by two chefs, offering a modern, unfussy approach to dining. The menu is concise, built around smaller plates that are easy to share and explore. Counter seating gives the best view of the kitchen and helps guide ordering as you chat to the friendly team. Portions are modest, so it’s worth trying a few dishes, such as torotaku (tuna and pickles), octopus avocado salad and the standout hayashi rice, a rich and comforting end to the meal.

Kanetaka Hamono is a small specialist knife shop offering precision-forged blades for both professional and home use. The selection ranges across materials and price points, with stainless steel blades easier to maintain, and carbon steel offering a sharper cut but requiring more upkeep due to rust. Do your research before heading in as the staff speak limited English. Engraving is available for a personal touch, but for only up to three letters. The shop also sells nail clippers of the same high quality that come with a lifetime guarantee.

At Ace Hotel Kyoto, a former 1920s telephone exchange has been cleverly reworked by Japanese architect extraordinaire, Kengo Kuma. The feel is design-forward but grounded – wood, light and craft running through generous rooms and lively shared spaces. It’s as much a social hub as a hotel, with standout dining, a rooftop scene and Kyoto’s first Stumptown Coffee Roasters. 

A lovely Michelin-star kaiseki restaurant housed in a renovated machiya townhouse. The original and adventurous dishes are made using only the freshest, seasonal ingredients produced in Kyoto. From grilled sakura masu and mountain vegetable buds, to young sweetfish served with miso paste and wild garlic, not to mention the range of sake!