Few cities catch you off guard quite like this one. The food scene is quietly extraordinary, the art world is having a moment, and the people have a warmth and energy that stays with you. It is also the only capital city in the world with a national park on its doorstep: lions, giraffes and buffalo against a skyline of glass towers. Use it as your base for the Mara, or simply stay longer than you planned. Most people do.


