Stockholm Archipelago
in Sweden

Just 20 kilometers from Stockholm city centre is one of the most easily accessible islands within the Stockholm Archipelago, Hålludden on Värmdö, which is also home to a striking contemporary art galleries. Designed by architect Johan Nyrén, the wooden and glass building, topped with a moss-covered, flower-lined roof, is surrounded by forest-lined cliffs, a sculpture garden, and various swimmable ocean coves. A public bus or regularly running Summer ferry service takes you directly to the entrance of Artipelag, or to the wooden, coastal boardwalks that wrap around the museum for an ideal afternoon walk. 

Utö's island bakery is a consistently bustling hub just a short walk from the island’s docking harbour. The red-panelled bungalow, set apart with its turquoise-painted door, stocks its shelves with sticky, cinnamon-spiced rolls, morning rolls, and loaves of seeded rye in the morning. Pick up a seasonal special rabarberbullar, a sweet dough topped with the island’s rhubarb compote and a grainy crumble, for the afternoon fika, stop by for lunch and order a courgette, lemon pizza slice from the take-out window hatch.  

Trestle tables line the terrace of the wooden shack and family-run restaurant Båtshaketon, at the most southern tip of Ålö. Fishing nets, vintage red-and-white life rings, and vintage sailing lights mark the interiors, the simple gravel garden paved by flowering, potted plants and strawberry vines. Grilled fresh fish is served daily on the outside BBQ alongside plates of pickled salmon, Skagen mash (a creamy prawn salad with a generous amount of dill), and homegrown buttery potatoes.   

One of the only addresses marked on the maps in Gällnö is the hybrid summer-opening tavern, country kiosk, campsite, and hostel. Post dip at Landsgrunderna – a pebble-washed bay and favoured swimming spot – walk over to the tavern for a seasonally harvested lunch. The menu varies, but highlights include panzanella with squid, seared asparagus on a bed of lemony burrata, and a passionfruit tartlette to finish. The next-door trading house kiosk stocks fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese, and speciality tinned fish, with bread delivered each day from Stockholm's Vivels bakery. And, to catch the last of the afternoon rays, order a Swedish microbrewery ale and nab a spot along the jetty.   

Follow the gravel trail from Utö to Rävstavik Bay, paved by forest and woodland for an easier hike, or set out on the more scenic 10km loop around the northern tip of the island. Fishing villages, pastures, and lakes lead to Stora Sandvik before continuing to the rocky Rävstavik Bay. It’s here that the island boasts the best cliffs for jumping into the chilly Baltic Sea.   

The entirety of Ålö is a nature reserve connected to the larger island of Utö by a small bridge and a five-kilometre hiking trail that passes through the island’s military training ground and ends at Stora Sand beach. This white, sandy stretch is often deserted in off-peak season but becomes a popular hangout for friends and family on the longer, summer days. Find the locals grilling hot dogs on the public BBQs and swimming in the clear water bay.