where the land tells a story: inside Portugal’s new rural retreat
In central Portugal’s rural Leiria, a 40-hectare plot of biodynamic land has been transformed into an intimate, 16-room hotel. The freshly opened Quinta Filippa does more than tell a story of family, generations and ancestry; it brings together a combined vision, weaving intricate design and Portuguese heritage with wellness, rest and nature.
Whether it’s rounds of pétanque on the idyllic, tree-surrounded gravel pitch, dips in the 25-metre heated saltwater pool – a feature that grew bit by bit in the quest for perfection – or time spent on the outdoor yoga deck, which offers views over the expanse of verdantly green gardens, it could be all three. What’s certain is that the founders, Mike Schwalbach and Nikki Mol, have created a full-board haven that is irresistibly hard to leave.
It’s the story of a family: a holiday home in the same village where Mike would spend his summers as a child. The same village where a small forest house was once the family home of his mother and her nine siblings, before she emigrated to Germany. And the same village to which Mike and Nikki would return, time and time again, with their eldest daughter, Filippa, in tow.
When they discovered the Quinta back in 2017 and began renovating their home-away-from-home, the vision evolved. A red light therapy, infrared sauna and and hammam, scented with fresh eucalyptus, now neighbour the temperature-controlled pool, which in turn is surrounded by a misting cooling system – switched on to preserve the lush flowers and ultimately cool the grounds. Concrete ping-pong tables jut out of the garden, planted with herbs, strawberries and Alentejo olive trees, while a staggering 160 truckloads of rocks and boulders – including some left to carve – were used to landscape the three natural ponds, now playing happy host to more than 80 turtles.
Mike shows us these elements with an infectious sort of energy. He points out the wells that surround the grounds; the outdoor communal dining table, a large cement block set into huge stones; the space where the aquariums will be built – beside an outdoor fireside lounge, where the sofas, designed by local textile crafters Pedro and Lúcio, are custom-built into concrete slabs; the former underground car garage, which will act as a temporary gym until the permanent development is complete; and the preserved village bread oven – now a beamed masterpiece within the sleek open kitchen overlooking the central courtyard. The same kitchen is decked out in made-to-measure, hand-cut tiles as an ode to the country’s heritage.
Nanouk Souren van Ramshorst, co-founder of Amsterdam-based Circle Studio, assisted with the design. Conceived as a place to rest, recharge and refuel, the space is reflected in the calm, earthy tones of the interiors. The furniture, ceramics and textiles are sourced from makers in the surrounding villages, complementing the work created through in-house collaborations with artists and an exciting rotation of residencies. From the tried-and-tested plant pots made by Pedro Pedrosa to the smallest finishing touches, every detail is considered.
There’s a pair of Dunlop wellies propped by my door, ready to stomp across the land, whatever the weather may bring. Inside my room, it's a calm sanctuary of wood and beige: an abstract piece by Ilse van Stoltz is propped up on the shelf, alongside a hanging mobile crafted from stacked olive wood, acacia, cork, clay and stone, the result of a residency with Merging Matter. The bathroom is a living oasis. Here, a vertical garden rises from the far wall, light pours through the skylight above the shower, and products from Azores-based skincare brand BAMandBOO – suncream included – become part of the everyday ritual.
A weekly seasonal programme of activities – whether it’s vinyasa yoga on the outdoor deck, Horizon, Reformer Pilates, hypnotherapy, guided hikes, horse therapy, bread baking or surfing lessons (the ocean being just a golf cart ride away) – with all meals and drinks, is included in the rate. “There’s no reason to leave the Quinta,” as Mike puts it.
8am wake-up calls lead to morning greetings from Sara, before a breathwork session in a panoramic space framed by large windows, where recycled telegraph poles form beams across the dark wood ceilings. Breakfast follows: a three-course affair where Stean’s Beans’s custom coffee and fresh juice accompany a menu defined by the key ingredients of each plate.
The day follows: a massage at the in-house spa, a tour of Ivo’s gardens – Ivo is a farmer who grew up nearby and established his own organic farm before creating the orchard, vegetable and herb gardens at the Quinta – followed by lunch and a 5pm cultural immersion. We follow the itinerary, accompanied each evening by a handwritten goodnight note from Pedro, alongside a lip balm and hand cream, left on the bedside table.
Dinner, as with every meal here, is a standout. We head to the garden house, a large space complete with a lounge, an open kitchen and a dining area. The ambience is set by the sound of vinyl as Chef Paolo – born to a Dutch father and an Italian mother, and having moved across the globe – creates a menu rooted in the daily bounty. At every table, a plucked flower petal rests on a napkin beside bookmark-shaped menus, each one bearing a different photograph from the estate – a collector’s item. Fresh tomatoes are topped with basil and melon, while scallops are spiced with vadouvan, spinach and shallots. Dessert is a madeleine drenched in chocolate orange, with a twist of tarragon, washed down with a glass of iced tea. Everything is fresh, organic and utterly delicious.
What is clear is that Mike and Nikki have created a place born from the fulfilment of countless ideas. They, alongside the loyal team behind them, are creatives, but they are also creating something that brings together everything they would dream of finding in a luxury hotel with the warmth and personality of a family home. It’s a patch of land drenched in history, now being painstakingly rebuilt to both preserve and build upon its past.
Hannah Rees-Middleton
Wild swimming. Natural wine. Excellent exhibitions. And glorious country walks. These are a few of our editor Hannah Rees-Middleton’s favourite things. Whether she’s bouncing around Mexico, paddling through the Kenwood Ladies’ Pond or ogling another mound of butter at a fabulous supper club, Hannah is always in the midst of something cool. A consummate planner, a lover of beautiful things, a traveller never without a camera and a deck of cards. Hannah is many things (including the perfect resource for perfect travel tips).
