the Greek island you’ve probably never heard of: Kimolos

There are many types of Greek Getaway. It is, after all, a country of disparity and paradox. Historic but modern, pristine yet unruly. While the mainstream ‘island holiday’ may conjure up images of boujie and bustling beach bars in overly gentrified surroundings, more curious wanderers can slip into a local rhythm on Kimolos, passing days slowly with minimal spending and maximum sea time. Visiting in June, just before the high season sets off, is an assured way for the wholesome, aesthete traveller to meet the truest representation of the simple Greek way of life. 

Friendliness really does seem to be a common attribute of the 900 locals on the island. And a lightness too. As a solo female traveller, these small and pleasant interactions accumulate to a feeling of incredible safety. No day ended without at least five Yiayias passing me on the streets in their floral dresses with a smiling “Kalimera” or “Kalispera”, or a young family pulling over on the side of the road to offer me a lift up the hill as I schlepped home from the beach in the heat.  

Each of my days started and ended at Rema beach or Karras beach – a short walk downhill from the main village, where a handful of people would gather to lounge about on the otherworldly rock forms, routinely jumping into the deep coves of brightest blue water I have ever seen.

In a timely stroke of luck, this was also the location for the opening night of the island’s annual International Film Festival, where plein-air screenings happen in a new, scenic location every week. A ritual held and cherished by a small group of Kimolos locals, or those lucky enough to be passing through. The night played out like a scene from a film in and of itself, with lantern lights hanging in an exploding star formation from poles in the rocks, dangling over the people and out over the water as we all perched atop little woven mats placed as seats in front of a large projector screen erected right in-front of ‘Elephantas’ – the iconic anthropomorphic shaped rock.  

Island Greeks come out at night, this I know all too well now. On any night the village square, spattered with cafes and tavernas, seemed to wake up. Numerous kids kicked balls and chased the lingering cats while their parents ate at Stou Fragouli. Older gentlemen gathered outside the iconic kafenio O Kampos for a nightcap. Inscribed on handmade magnets and painted in deep blue on the whitewashed walls of chora (the traditional village) are the words ‘Κιμολο μου, παράδεισο μου.’ Which translates to say, ‘Kimolos, my paradise.’ 

Venturing by bus, taxi or car to sandy and sprawling beaches such as Mavrospilia, Prassa, and Kalamitsi is all too easy, given the island’s scale, and a way to prolong a beach day under parasols with a book picked up from one of the island’s many public book-borrowing libraries (there’s even one in the skeleton of an old row boat). A welcome change from searing yourself on shade-less hot rocks, with Mavrospilia doubling as the best location to watch the sunset, and Kalamitsi Tavern an unfussy but quality haunt for post-swim sustenance (think grilled octopus, fried calamari, and fresh Greek salad) or a long, languid dinner with company. If there’s time for a more adventurous day on the water, take a boat tour to uninhabited Poleigos Island to have some of the most private and restorative swimming coves all to yourself.  

WHERE TO STAY ON KIMOLOS

Back on land and in need of a night’s rest, Thavma Cyclades have recently refurbished one of the most iconic old fisherman’s houses on the island into a rentable getaway space. Keeping true-to-character, but with revised details to fit a modern day stay, there is nothing overwrought or flashy about this place. Just a sense of calm to be found right on the water between Karras and Rema Beach. If being high above it all and closer to the ‘action’ of the village is preferred, consider a stay in the old windmill rented out by Aria Hotels.