the flavours of Japan: seasonality at Mirukashi Salon
There’s no better way to discover a place than through the eyes of a local. And when said local also has an outsider’s perspective — like American-born photographer, writer and cook Prairie Stuart-Wolff, who relocated to Japan’s Kyushu Island in 2007 — you’re bound to develop a rare appreciation for that place and its culture.
This is the allure of Mirukashi Salon, a series of five-day immersive culinary journeys launched in 2023 by Stuart-Wolff and her wife, ceramicist Hanako Nakazato. While most travellers to Japan beeline to cities to eat at Michelin-starred temples of gastronomy, participants of Mirukashi Salon go to the source of Japan’s best-known flavours—matcha, nori, sake, chili-laced yuzu kosho—and meet with the artisans and small producers who power the nation’s food culture. The trips are slow and soulful, whisking guests across the grass-covered highlands, lush pastures and volcano- and mountain-studded landscapes of Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands, and embarking on foraging excursions, market & atelier visits and cooking classes.
When Stuart-Wolff moved from Maine to Kyushu to be with Nakazato, the 14th generation in a long line of celebrated potters (her grandfather was declared a living national treasure by the government), she didn’t speak a word of Japanese; she learned about the country’s ancient crafts and traditional cooking from her Japanese mother-in-law, Kuniko. Kuniko taught her the art of foraging and preserving, as well as the importance of observing Japan’s 24 seasons and 72 micro-seasons, each with its own distinct rhythm and bounty—for example, bamboo shoots in spring and gingko nuts in fall. Stuart-Wolff chronicled these findings on her blog and Instagram, and when her inbox became flooded with inquiries from people interested in learning more, she hatched the idea of Mirukashi Salon. This year, they’ll offer 8 small-group itineraries.
The season kicks off in mid-February with First Spring. A major draw of this salon is foraging for fukinoto (butterbur buds), a mildly bitter perennial—used for tempura and miso paste—that’s said to taste like spring; it’s one of the first plants to poke out of the snow. Another outing will take participants to the Ariake Sea to meet with aqua-farmers and learn how Japan’s finest nori is grown.
In March, a springtime salon is centred on the visual spectacle that is the cherry blossom season. The flowering of these delicate pink blooms coincides with outdoor celebrations; in honor of the event, Mirukashi Salon will host a picnic with sweeping island views. The culinary programming will celebrate the flavours of the season, including tai sea bream, a fish that’s thought to bring good luck and is a centrepiece of traditional events and special occasions, and kinome, the young leaf of the Sansho (prickly ash tree) that has a flavour reminiscent of citrus fruit.
Tea-lovers will want to consider the April salon, which will guide participants to Ureshino, the birthplace of tea culture, to marvel at miles of tea fields backed by green mountains and surrounded by verdant valleys. Guests will learn to correctly brew tea, cook with tea and even use the brewed drink to craft creative cocktails.
Another one of Japan’s most legendary products, soy, gets the spotlight in the Autumn Bounty trip, which features an excursion to Itoshima to learn about the art, science and craft of brewing soy and fermenting its products in wooden barrels.
As travellers meet with small producers and participate in hands-on workshops and foraging outings, they’ll develop an intimate knowledge of Japan’s rich food culture. But beyond that—and as a testament to Stuart-Wolff and Nakazato’s hospitality—they’ll be welcomed into a foreign land like friends and family. Which, if you ask us, is the rarest and most special travel experience of all.
Siobhan Reid
