New York's best old-school bites

You can’t visit Grand Central Terminal without stopping by the Oyster Bar. Open only on weekdays (one of the few changes in its storied past), this subterranean icon has been serving seafood since 1913. Grab a counter seat and dive into a platter of just-shucked oysters with a cocktail – though fair warning, it’s not the smartest combo if you’re rushing to catch a train. If you have time, settle in at a gingham-topped table for a bowl of rich clam chowder, a jumbo shrimp cocktail or a pan roast, all under the glow of vaulted tiled ceilings. The seafood is fresh, the history is real and the experience is pure old-school New York.

If you’re in Chinatown, you’ve got to hit up Nom Wah Tea Parlor. It’s the kind of place that’s been around forever and just feels like part of the neighbourhood. The vibe? Classic Chinatown – old-school tiles, small wooden tables and a low-key but lively energy. It’s been run by the same family for generations, and you can tell they take pride in keeping things traditional. The dim sum is legit – crispy dumplings, soft bao buns and those shrimp rolls you’ll dream about later. Go early to beat the crowd (it gets packed) and don’t skip the pot of tea. You’ll feel like you’ve stumbled onto a secret, even though it’s anything but.

The Odeon is the kind of place that feels like it’s always been cool. Back in the day, it was the after-hours haunt for Warhol’s crowd and the backdrop of early Manhattan nightlife. Today, it’s still the go-to for steak frites, an extra-dry martini and that perfect late-night burger. The red leather booths, Deco lighting and glowing neon sign outside feel totally unchanged – whether you’re here for a power lunch or a 2 a.m. rendezvous. Some places fade with time, but The Odeon stays relentlessly iconic, proving that a great bistro like this stays stylish for a reason. Also worth ordering is the French onion soup, and don’t skip the crème brûlée, it’s a sugar-crusted sensation.

The real deal since the Seventies, Raoul’s has been serving up old-school French fare with just the right amount of downtown edge. This SoHo bistro still draws a crowd – artists, locals and in-the-know diners who come for the steak au poivre, crispy frites and a large martini. The dimly lit space lined with vintage art and a winding staircase feels effortlessly timeless, the kind of place where a late dinner can turn into an even later night. Claim territory of one of the coveted barstools, where you can sip Burgundy and watch the kitchen work its quick-lip magic whipping up a menu that hasn’t lost its edge and a vibe that never tries too hard.

To many, Barney Greengrass is known as the Sturgeon King. Why? Because it’s one of the Upper West Side’s best spots for cured fish in all forms – whitefish, nova and yes, sturgeon. Now run by fourth-generation Greengrass family members, this uptown staple sees fans returning for bagels, lox and babka most days of the week. Former New Yorker and longtime fan Anthony Bourdain made his love for the deli clear, frequently stopping by for his quintessential breakfast: eggs scrambled with browned onions and lox, a basket of bialys, nova and a pot of chopped liver to go. Make sure to bring cash.

Though no longer actually on Second Avenue, this Jewish institution has been a staple since 1954. Founded by immigrant Abe Lebewohl, it started as a humble 10-seat luncheonette on East 10th Street. Lebewohl, who first learned the trade as a soda jerk in a Coney Island deli, did it all – manning the counter, waiting tables, bussing and handling the books. Word spread fast, and soon, Manhattan couldn’t get enough of the stacked pastrami sandwiches, fluffy matzo ball soup, and chocolate egg creams to sweetly sip on. Decades later, the cult following remains as strong as ever, even with its new home in Kipp’s Bay.

For well over one hundred years, P.J. Clarke’s has been a go-to for no-frills, retro charm and for one of the best burgers in the city. This Midtown East saloon has served everyone from Sinatra to Jackie O, and its red-and-white checkered tables remain packed with hungry goers craving the legendary bacon cheeseburger, perfectly crispy fries and an ice-cold beer. The raw bar is a must for oysters and littlenecks, while the chilli and onion strings are sleeper hits. Dark wood, dim lighting, and a jukebox playing classics set the scene, making it the kind of place that feels unchanged in the best way. 

A Harlem fixture since 1962, Sylvia’s is the city’s soul food mecca. Founded by Sylvia Woods, the “Queen of Soul Food,” this beloved spot has served up crispy fried chicken, buttery cornbread and smothered pork chops for generations. Locals swear by the tender ribs, collard greens, and shrimp and grits, while Sundays bring a lively gospel brunch that feeds both body and certainly soul. Celebrities, politicians, and downtowners (who willingly make the trek to West 126th Street) all pull up a chair here, drawn by the warmth of the food and the hospitality. Expect a wait that’s worth riding it out and make sure to try the peach cobbler.

Few places capture old New York like Keens. Established in 1885, this Midtown mainstay is a relic of the city’s steakhouse golden age, where mutton chops churn out like hotcakes and history clatters across the walls – literally. Thousands (over 90,000 to be exact) of clay churchwarden pipes, once belonging to patrons like Teddy Roosevelt and Babe Ruth, hang from the ceiling, a nod to its Victorian roots. It’s often about the chops, but a good move is ordering a perfectly charred prime rib and a stiff Manhattan to wash it down. Deep dark wood (we’re sensing a theme here), white tablecloths and waiters in waistcoats – does it get any better?

Bamonte’s has been swirling plates of spaghetti in Williamsburg since 1900, and not much has changed since – which is exactly the point. The checkered floors, vintage photos and waiters who’ve been here longer than some Brooklyn residents make it feel like a time capsule of old-school Brooklyn Italian. The menu? Saucy veal parmigiana the size of Italy’s heel, sky-high crispy calamari and meatballs as good as ma would make. It’s the kind of place where you don’t need to look at the menu – you just order what you always do and know it’ll be just as is. A true red sauce staple that still gets it right, every time. 

In a city rife with pizza joints, finding the right slice can feel like a minefield. But Di Fara stands out as a true exception. Since 1965, this Midwood cornerstone has been serving up some of the city’s best pies—and it’s stayed true to its roots. The pizza here is simple, but perfect: thin, crisp crust with a balance of zingy sauce, fresh mozzarella made in-house and scissor-cut basil, all drizzled with olive oil. Whether it’s the classic Margherita or a square Sicilian, every pie is crafted with the same care Domenico DeMarco (who passed in 2022) put into each one. The lines are often long, bear that in mind.