Finland through its pastries
The first time I really thought about Finnish pastry culture was when my English boyfriend pointed out that we seem to have a "thing" for pastry-centric holidays. Once the thought was there, I could not unthink it.
Our year flows in the rhythm of seasonal pastries, each appearing and disappearing in bakeries throughout town, marking the changing seasons. When thinking of pastry destinations, it’s likely for your mind to wander off to Vienna's elegant cake houses or to indulge in daydreams of the buttery croissants and air-light eclairs of Paris. And then, of course, there's Copenhagen.
Though Helsinki may be easy to overlook, I believe it deserves its moment in the spotlight. Let me introduce you to our pastries. That way you know exachtly when (and where) to find them.
Poetic pastries and creamy cardamom buns
The Finnish pastry year starts in February when the need for a pastryless month is long gone. The first seasonal treat of the year is Runeberg’s Torte, a quirky little almond cake spiced with arrack, topped with raspberry jam and neatly dolloped within a ring of icing. The cake is named after Finnish poet Johan Ludvig Runeberg, who, as the tale goes, was very fond of this treat created by his wife in the 1850s. These days, Runeberg’s Torte can be found in bakeries all around Finland on the poet’s birthday, February 5th. Try it at Café Ekberg, one of Helsinki’s oldest cafes. It's got that perfect retro ambience for a pastry as poetic as Runeberg’s Torte.
Despite February being the shortest month of the year, around here, it’s long enough for two seasonal pastries. Besides the poet’s almond cakes, it's creamy Shrove Tuesday buns dominating pastry cases across Finland. These cream-filled cardamom buns are always served with either jam or soft almond paste - a question of pastry preference dividing the nation in two. The buns are widely available throughout February with each bakery and café serving a signature version. My personal favourite is from St. George Bakery (which you should also visit for their Boston buns no matter the season).
Do-lick-your-lips doughnuts
After February, this town puts pastries on pause for a while, but as Labour Day comes around on the first of May, sugar-coated doughnuts steal the show as the local it-treat. I adore Way Bakery's version. Their ring-shaped doughnuts are spiced with a hint of lemon and just the right amount of salt and baked fresh on-site. To secure your share, it’s worth being an early bird, as it’s not at all uncommon for this fan favourite to fly off the counter and sell out. While at Way, make sure to stick around to try the rest of the menu. My favourite thing is their breakfast plate, which comes with a perfectly thick slice of house sourdough, butter, cheese and a (literally) smiling egg - best eaten on their sunny terrace on one of the first warm days after winter.
From berry-picking to family pie secrets
After a seemingly never-ending dark, cold winter, summer is a long-awaited treat. To make the most of the bright summer months, it’s common for us Finns to trade the busy routines of the city for slowed-down days in the countryside. After all, we want the summer to feel as long as possible. After a few blissful days of doing absolutely nothing, an older family member might kindly request you grab a bucket and venture into the forest to pick bilberries for pie. Every Finnish grandma has her signature bilberry pie recipe, often passed down for generations. Some like to bake it with a crumbly oat pastry, while other’s prefer a more cake-like texture. Bilberry pie is almost always served with vanilla custard or a scoop of ice cream and always eaten fresh.
Now, I understand you might not have the chance to visit the Finnish countryside during your trip to Helsinki (let alone find yourself a Finnish grandma to bake you a pie). Luckily, you can get almost the same experience by hopping on a ferry from Helsinki Market Square to Suomenlinna, an old fortress just 15 minutes from the city centre. In Suomenlinna there are plenty of cafés where you can find an authentic slice of pie. Buy a few slices and walk to the cliffs on the far end of the island. Then you can enjoy the treat as you watch the mellow moves of the Baltic Sea. Brave the chilly waters after for a digestive dip like a true Finn!
Cinnamon bun day and prune tarts
While cinnamon buns are a treat eaten all year round, we are so fond of them that we have dedicated a holiday to celebrate their deliciousness. Cinnamon Bun Day is spice-scented festivity celebrated on the 4th of October. To celebrate, all you need to do is eat at least one bun. The best cinnamon buns in Helsinki are baked at Rams Roasters, a small café in the southern part of the city. If you're lucky, you might catch a tray being pulled fresh from the oven.
Star-shaped prune tarts, known as joulutorttu’, round off the Finnish pastry year. These quirky Christmas treats are flaky, buttery pastry filled with a rich prune jam and finished with a dusting of icing sugar after baking. Tuomaan Markkinat Christmas Market is the perfect spot for you to try them. For the full experience, pair your joulutorttu with a steaming cup of mulled wine garnished with almonds and raisins.
Emma Ranne
On days when we’re lacking inspiration, there’s one place – or, rather, one person – that’s top of the list to get our creative juices flowing: our friend Emma. There’s little she does that doesn’t have that glimmer to it, that touch of magic. From content creation to curated supper clubs, she knows how to make things cool. For Emma, travelling is all about the food. This Helsinki native simply picks a destination and lets her tastebuds do the rest. Come to Emma for the lowdown on beautiful galleries, classic cinemas and the best bites wherever you go.
