do the Biennale like a local
Arriving in Venice is nothing short of fantastical. Some may say it’s crowded—and we can’t disagree—but amidst all the chaos is a place so full of charm that, for once, the multitudes of people photographing every nook and cranny doesn’t bother us. Partly because we’re partial to gawping at Renaissance masterpieces, bridges and gondolas and partly because, ultimately, this is what makes Venice Venice.
While we can easily find a spot to sip an Aperol Spritz Veneziano along the waterfront or hunt down a bacaro offering our mid-day fill of chicchetti all on our own, no one navigates Venice quite like a local. With the imminent opening of the Venice Biennale, we can think of no better way to discover Venice than through the eyes of a man well-acquainted with this magical place.
Enter: Umberto Garabello. His love for art and design is so potent that, for us, his opinions are gospel. Founder of LANDET, a new venture of sustainably developed, masterfully decorated cabins buried within the Swedish archipelago, his artful eye is evident. The cabins—designed by architectural mastermind, Andreas Martin-Löf, with interiors by Tobias Vernon—are ever-so swoon-worthy.
With an international outlook and a heart stretched across Europe, he is undeniably an avid explorer. Though Umberto may have settled in Stockholm, it is his love for Venice that runs deep. As he says: one can never have enough of Venice.
So, let us explore this playground: swap the slides, swings and fireman’s pole for back-alley drink spots, deliriously good restaurants and some of the world’s most luxurious places to call home for a few days. This is Umberto’s guide to the floating city.
Rewind to 2017. Viva Arte Viva hit the streets of Venice to somewhat of a mixed bag of reactions. Intended to dive-deep into the almost mythical question, “what is it to be an artist?”, Viva Arte Via united mixed-media artworks. For Umberto, Axel Vervoordt and Daneila Ferretti’s Intuition stole the show. Lit with excitement, he talks about their takeover of the Palazzo Fortuny as clearly as if it were yesterday. It became its own special entity within the spectacularly exquisite Palazzo. Vervoordt caused quite the frenzy; art-fanatics flocked to see his curation of Anish Kapoor, Max Ernst, Gustave Courbet and a specially commissioned performance piece by Marina Abramović. Vervoordt’s taste was astonishingly eclectic: not often do we have Joan Miró’s curvilinear works presented hand-in-hand with Angel Vergara’s performance Straatman. It is this union, the marriage of the unexpected, that Umberto feels defines Venice.
In the City of Masks, where social differences are obscured, the Biennale serves to strip off these masks and unite art-lovers, design fans, collectors and passers-by. Indeed, Umberto’s is not shy to grab a drink, sip from a plastic cup and join the folks sitting along the waterfront for a much-needed refresh. And you can’t blame him, for this is where and when the city comes alive. Forever a man of surprises, he shares another beloved spot, though one that offers quite the contrast. For a more high-brow spot for a drink or two, he heads straight to The Library Bar at the Nolinski. “Think Gatsby-esque interiors, with more than four thousand books lining the mahogany arched shelves, a grand piano, two gigantic etchings pinned to the wall and a ceiling fresco completed by Simon Buret.” We can hardly imagine a more perfect place to sip a martini.
But it is the history of this magical city that seems to hold Umberto captive. Fondly coined the jewel returned to the city’s crown, the Royal Palace is a must-see. This restoration project, formerly home to the Bonapartes, the Habsburgs and the Savoy, preserves traditional pieces spanning three completely different phases of Venetian history. It is with slight bewilderment that these apartments remain relatively untouched by tourists, despite being just inches away from the Piazza San Marco. Come here to retreat from the crowds and relax in the Royal Gardens, the largest green area in the city, with spectacular views overlooking the San Marco Basin. When Umberto’s ready to face the crowds once more, he heads straight to the Palazzo Grimani or the Fondazione Querini Stampalia for his daily dosage of art. In Umberto’s eyes, these are the places to see.
Culture sufficiently consumed, it’s time to dine. When Umberto’s not at home hosting a dinner party—with seafood picked up from his go-to spot, the Peschiera Fratelli Da Vio at the Rialto Market, naturally—he heads for a slow lunch at the Lineadombra for not only the food but certainly the exceptional views. But it is Antiche Carampane that has quite literally stolen his heart. Within the charming streets of Campo San Polo, this trattoria is perfectly hidden yet heaving with locals. It's terrifically buzzy and has superb food. Umberto’s order is a classic: moeche fritti, or fried soft-shelled crab fresh from the lagoon, served with a portion of Puntarelle alla Romana. It may not be listed on the menu, but Umberto assures me that, like any good Venetian, all you have to do is ask, and it will be rustled up more than willingly.
The Venice Biennale is intense. It’s full of hard-core art fanatics, but you’ll also find those who simply want to languor in the buzz, take in the terrific blend of disciplines and witness the transformation it inspires in this already special city. If you need a quick retreat, Umberto suggests zipping out to the Hotel Excelsior to relax on the beach; it’s just 30 minutes from the city centre. Or take a trip out to the gardens of the Locanda Cipriani. Want to stay local? Head to the Church of San Sabastiano: a beautiful little 16th-century church located in the Dorsoduro Sestriere. When you’re ready to face the crowds again, pop into a few local boutiques for your fill of luxurious Venetian souvenirs. From the Piedàterre slippers (which can be found at LANDET too) to the bed linen at Jesurum 1870 and the homeware at GIOBAGNARA, Venetians certainly do interiors best!
And what shall we keep our eyes peeled for? “Anish Kapoor’s new venture in the Palazzo Priuli Manfrin,” Umberto notes. Who knows what we can expect from a sculptor so dedicated to the examination of geometric forms and pigmentation. After all, there aren’t many artists who have purchased artistic rights to a colour (in his case, Vantablack). We’ve got to say: we’re as eager to visit this place as Umberto.
Bring on the Biennale!
Hannah Rees-Middleton
Wild swimming. Natural wine. Excellent exhibitions. And glorious country walks. These are a few of our editor Hannah Rees-Middleton’s favourite things. Whether she’s bouncing around Mexico, paddling through the Kenwood Ladies’ Pond or ogling another mound of butter at a fabulous supper club, Hannah is always in the midst of something cool. A consummate planner, a lover of beautiful things, a traveller never without a camera and a deck of cards. Hannah is many things (including the perfect resource for perfect travel tips).
