an insider guide to Malta
Floating in the Mediterranean Sea between Sicily and Tunisia, the island of Malta has always been a melting pot of cultures. With its unique blend of fascinating history, rugged rocky beaches and faded grandeur, it’s one of Europe’s hottest spots. Yet it can still be tricky to get under the island’s skin, to truffle out the under-the-radar finds away from the tourist hordes. That’s why you need some expert guidance, which I found in the form of mother-daughter duo Suzanne Sharp and Sophie Edwards.
Co-founder of The Rug Company, Suzanne is Maltese and spent her formative years on the island. She’s currently in the process of transforming her Maltese family home into a luxury boutique hotel, due to open next spring. Named Casa Bonavita, the 17-room hotel is furnished with pieces she’s scoured at local auctions and is set to shake up Malta’s luxury hotel scene with its artfully curated aesthetic, gorgeous garden (complete with a pool) and classic old-fashioned hospitality. “I’ve never been anywhere like it – it’s very unique,” says Suzanne of the property. “It’s like one of those beautiful Moroccan riads, where you walk in and you’re just like, ‘Wow’. It's that experience.”
Her daughter Sophie, meanwhile, lived on the island until she was six and returned again with her husband, Rowley Edwards, six years ago, just before having their first son (the couple now have three young children). Once back in Malta, they teamed up with a family friend, Jasper de Trafford, to take over Villa Bologna Pottery, which dates to the 1920s. Since taking over they’ve breathed new life into the business, turning it into one of the chicest shops in Malta, with an on-site pottery studio and a buzzy Italian restaurant next door. “It was the perfect opportunity for us, because we're both really into interiors,” says Sophie. “Plus, it was very Maltese, with amazing heritage, so we jumped at the chance to take it over.”
With the inside track on all the island’s lesser-known spots, here’s Suzanne and Sophie’s guide to Malta.
Where to stay
Suzanne: I always send people to The Phoenicia or the Corinthia Palace. The Phoenicia’s in the centre of Valletta and it's a real classic. It's Malta's first five-star hotel and it has a lovely pool and a great spa. The Corinthia Palace is another classic hotel in Attard, which is the village where Casa Bonavita and Villa Bologna Pottery are based. That’s usually where I stay when I’m on the island. I also love Iniala Harbour House, which again is in Valletta, right on the harbour. It has amazing views, great service and a Michelin-starred restaurant by Simon Rogan on the rooftop.
Sophie: My kids love it when my parents stay at the Corinthia because it’s got a great pool that they can splash around in. But I usually direct friends to my parents’ Airbnbs, which are in Senglea, the next town along from Valletta. They’ve got four apartments, which my mum designed and are really beautiful. They’re right on the seafront so they’ve got amazing views of the harbour.
Where to eat and drink
Suzanne: If I want a traditionally Maltese breakfast, I’ll head to Crystal Palace in Rabat. There you can get a great pastizzi, which is a delicious Maltese pastry filled with ricotta, and a clear glass of tea. If I’m in Valletta I’ll go to Caffe Cordina, which is where my family has always gone for a coffee in the morning. I like to get an espresso and sit outside in the square under the big statue of Queen Victoria.
For lunch I love going to Palazzo Parisio, which is an amazing palazzo with a beautiful garden. It has a lovely atmosphere and you can have afternoon tea there too. There’s also a great spot in Birgu called Terrone, which you reach via a tiny boat across from Valletta. The food is insanely good, very Mediterranean, lots of fresh fish. And the setting is incredible, right on the water with views of the Grand Harbour. When I’m with the whole family we’ll go to Rogantinos, which is an old hunting lodge in the country. It’s very rustic and they only serve traditional Maltese food.
Sophie: If I’m looking for a low-key, local lunch I love going to Café Jubilee in Valletta. They do a great hobz biz-zejt, which is a sandwich stuffed with tuna, capers, olives and tomatoes. I’ll wash it down with a kinnie, which is a local fizzy drink. Trabuxu wine bar in Valletta is a lovely spot to sit outside with a glass of wine and some salami and cheese. For fresh seafood we always go to Carmen’s, which is a family-run spot set in a fisherman’s cove in Ghar Lapsi. They do the best spaghetti vongole and ice cream.
Where to shop
Suzanne: There aren’t loads of great shops on Malta, but I like Mavenry, which is quite new. It’s like a tiny Net-a-Porter, very well curated. It’s a great place to get something special, like a gorgeous bathing suit or a lovely dress. The buyer has a great eye. For homewares I go to Camilleri Paris Mode, a little department store in Rabat. That’s where I buy lovely soaps and candles – they’ve got brands including Santa Maria Novella and Cire Trudon, as well as really nice ceramics and furniture.
Sophie: As my mum says, Malta isn’t really known for shopping, but there’s a road that has lots of nice gold shops where you can buy beautiful gold necklaces and earrings and little gold charms. The best one is Frank Zampa – I collect charms and that’s where I get them all from, little horseshoes and crosses.
What to do
Suzanne: Both Valletta and Mdina are incredible for culture and if you want to do prehistoric, there's Hal Tarxien, which are the ancient temples. There are also lots of wonderful nature spots to explore – my favourite place for a walk is Dingli Cliffs, which has great hiking trails.
Sophie: For culture I always take people to see the classics in Valletta – the Grand Master’s Palace and St John’s Cathedral. I’m also a big fan of MICAS, the new modern art space, which just opened last year. It’s very cool. Our favourite beach is Ghajn Tuffieha, where we’ll go with the kids. It’s a lovely sandy beach surrounded by cliffs – absolutely divine. There’s also a great little restaurant there, Singita, where you can order a pizza and watch the sunset over the water.
Where to day trip
Suzanne: The nearby island of Gozo is our favourite place for a day trip. You just hop on the fast ferry from Valletta and you’re there in no time. If we’re staying, we’ll book a room at Ta Cenc – the vibe there is great and the architecture is just beautiful. My favourite bar on the island is Gleneagles, which is super relaxed and right on the water with the most amazing views. It’s the perfect spot for sundowners.
Sophie: For lunch on Gozo we always go to Kantra, which is a beach club set on top of the rocks. It has gorgeous views and is a great place for a post-lunch swim. I also love going to the little market they have in Victoria every Saturday. You can pick up the most beautiful handmade lace there, all made by local women.
Luciana Bellini
