a ship of one's own
At some point during the pandemic, the cruise industry seemed to be on track to sink into oblivion. Nobody would even think about boarding a cruise ship anymore, experts argued. But they were proved wrong: 2023 has been a banner year for cruise liners, who launched new routes, ships and amenities (submarines, anyone?) to woo a new generation of cruisers. While part of the industry still operates under its 'bigger-is-better' credo (resulting in seaborne monstrosities such as Royal Caribbean's 7,600-passenger Icon of the Seas), a growing subset of cruise operators sails into more intimate directions.
"More and more, we find that travellers are seeking unique and authentic experiences where they can reconnect with friends, family and nature in an intimate setting," says Steve Ebsworth, co-founder of Bali-based Rascal Voyages. "Smaller, boutique operators are much more likely to be able to create such personalised voyages—and they’re also more likely to venture out to locations off the beaten track."
Below, five of our favourite boutique cruises around the world to take over with your crew. Without fixed schedules, drab buffet dinners and sharing with strangers—plain sailing just the way we like it.
Sunne Voyage
A group of young Thai creatives turned the shell of a former fishing vessel into one of the sleekest cruise ships in the Gulf of Thailand. Sunne Voyager (and its younger sibling, Sunne Explorer) sails you out on day trips around Thailand's little-visited Klaeng district in the Rayong province. Here, tiny, jungle-draped islands such as Ko Man Nai and Koh Munnork make for brilliant beach breaks and snorkeling spots. Both boats come equipped with SUP boards and kayaks to discover the region's watery wonders, after which a large dining table filled with wine, shrimp skewers and fresh fruit welcomes you back on board. There are no bedrooms, but parent resort Koh Munnork Private Island is a plush base to rest between day trips.
Rascal
Indonesia has no shortage of dive-centric liveaboards, but for those who aren't die-hard scuba junkies, the *phinisi*-style Rascal cruiser is a standout. With routes covering the kaleidoscopic reefs of Raja Ampat, the fabled Spice Islands or the mystical 'Land of Dragons' (the UNESCO-listed Komodo National Park), this small cruising outfit offers fully bespoke itineraries that reach far beyond the well-trodden tourist trail. Expert dive masters can arrange dives in some of the world's best spots, but there's plenty of fun on terra firma, too. Expect jungle excursions to gin-clear lagoons, pop-up beach clubs on uninhabited islets and spellbinding meetings with local communities. The five wood-clad staterooms on board are top-notch, and the Indonesian lunches and dinners on the flower-adorned deck give many restaurants on land a run for their money.
NaiSabah
Launched at the end of 2023, this Omani dhow with lateen sails and half a dozen crew members lets you discover northeastern Kenya's Lamu archipelago. Behind the glitzy Swahili villas of Shela village, Lamu is East Africa's celebrity-populated answer to Mallorca. During two- to six-night sailing trips that could bring you as far as Kiwayu on the Somali border, or to Zanzibar off the Tanzanian coast, days flow from snorkelling trips to village visits and sundowners on the beach. There are three aircon-cooled bedrooms below deck, but sleeping under the stars is part of the adventure. Every night, the crew unfurls bedrolls on the pillow-littered aft deck, where the cool night breeze and gentle waves rock you to a soothing slumber.
Set Nefru
In its former life, the five-bedroom Set Nefru sailed members of the Egyptian royal family along the Nile. Now, almost a century and a top-to-bottom refurb by local craftspeople later, you can take over this *dahabiya* cruiser as your own to sail between Luxor and Aswan. Each cabin is a breezy hidey-hole with Egyptian linen, French antiques and bathrooms clad in marble, while the top deck is a Nubian fantasy of boldly patterned fabrics, brass lanterns and an original Art Deco painting that was discovered during the ship's renovation. Three-day journeys lead you past the Nile's highlights—Esna, Edfu and Kom Ombo—but the deep-rooted expertise of local guides helps you venture to lesser-known tombs and temples far away from the tourist crowds.
Gypsy
The golden sunsets of Laos' mighty Mekong River are the stuff of legends. But its cookie-cutter river boats? Not so much. Luckily, there's Gypsy, a tiny vessel with thatched roofs and teakwood decks to take on go-slow journeys along one of Southeast Asia's most spellbinding waterways. During its three- to four-day tours that start from Luang Prabang, you'll glide past frozen-in-time villages and neon-green rice paddies on the palm-tufted riverbank, stopping for visits to elephant sanctuaries, secret temples and jungle hikes along the way. Life on deck is as private as it gets. With just two bedrooms draped in tribal fabrics and wicker decor, the boat is honeymoon-worthy or fit for a family; a private chef and butler make sure that every whim is catered to.
Chris Schalkx
With words and images in Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, Architectural Digest and Bloomberg Pursuits, our friend Chris is undeniably in the know. From luxe camping in Antarctica to two unforgettable weeks in Bhutan with a toddler in tow, he’s done it all. When he’s planning trips, Chris starts with a killer hotel and lets things unfold from there. It’s about the journey rather than the plan for him. With his nearly indestructible Rimowa carry-on and camera in tow, this culture fiend is perfectly suited for discovering the undiscovered.
