a guide to Ichijõji, Kyoto

Freshly prepared soba in a small, cosy setting owned by siblings. There’s something quite refined and delicate about the soba dishes here and the Sudachi Soba (cold green citrus) is the perfect respite from a hot Kyoto summer. This spot also serves Donburi and classic sides such as Tempura, Karage and Sashimi as well as drinks to wash it down with, including natural wine. It’s a local vibe and arriving as it opens is recommended if you don’t have a reservation.  

Located in a residential area along the Shirakawa Canal, this place could easily be missed when visiting Ichijoji but you mustn’t. A French style patisserie with small cakes such as canele and fruit cake to take away but the stars are really the desserts from a menu that changes often that you dine in for. Desserts are freshly prepared so take a little time to come, but are delicately assembled and delicious, with seasonal highlights. The pastry is short and amazing. It’s like skipping dinner and just having wine or coffee and dessert - sometimes all you need.  

Whenever you mention Ichijoji to Kyoto residents, Keibunsha is usually the first thing they reference. Somewhat of an institution, this three part building encompasses a bookshop and two homewares stores, with an event space in the back. There are regular pop-ups from local artists and a tasteful and eclectic selection of kitchenwares, linens, stationary and the like, but it’s the bookshop itself most people come for. For non-Japanese speakers there is very little in English but you can still appreciate the wide selection of books in an atmospheric and cosy setting.  

Whether you’re a coffee aficionado or just want to enjoy a cup whilst reading a book in a cosy setting, Bastet is a wonderful little cafe only open in afternoons. The cat theme and branding was deliberate - to escape the often overly stylized and hip aspect of many coffee shops and to make it a place for everyone. The owner speaks fantastic English and will happily talk you through the wide range of coffee on offer, letting you smell the beans and sample some rare and unusual varieties. The tiramisu (a somewhat unorthodox take on it) should absolutely not be missed. Teas and soft drinks also available.  

Located on the middle floor of the three story Keiokairai building, ‘Afterglow’ is a vintage and second-hand designer clothing store with a tightly curated selection of fashion and accessories. You might find affordable pieces from the likes of Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons and Maison Marigela. The space is white, bright and easier to navigate than most vintage stores and the owner is sweet and accommodating. Upstairs is a vinyl listening space and downstairs an experimental coffee shop ‘Visionary’ where you pay to use the space, browse the art books, listen to records and enjoy a coffee and snack in a more considered way.  

It’s no secret that Japan does pizza supremely well (what doesn’t Japan do well?) but it’s less common to see a New York slice - Napoli style usually taking precedence (and for a truly meditative wood fired pizza experience don’t miss Monk). But if you’re looking for cheap and full of cheer, Pizza Monstar has it down: it’s a huge, foldable slice and it’s delicious. They serve water in beer pong cups but there are no bros here. It’s a young crowd and some families with a hip-hop soundtrack and friendly staff. If you’re not a purist then try the lemon chicken white pizza. Chicken rice and Taco rice are also available and they deliver.  

Just a few doors down from Keibunsha and close to Ichijoji’s Eizan railway line which takes you up the mountain to Kurama, this is a beautifully curated and very photogenic space selling a range of mainly French and Japanese antiques and furniture. Each item seems to tell a story and it’s a wonderful place to pick up a piece of aesthetically pleasing Japanese or European history.  

As with most Buddhist temples in Kyoto, you pay a 500 yen entrance fee and enjoy as much or as little time as you like enjoying the traditional interior and gardens. Being out of the centre and away from the crowds, Shisendo is a particularly enjoyable and peaceful experience and is definitely worth the walk up if you’re visiting the neighborhood. The atmosphere and colours change with the seasons but whenever you visit you will be guaranteed serenity and beauty.  

If you’re craving something other than Japanese food then Obbli is a great option - authentic Mexican tacos with carefully chosen ingredients including blue corn tortillas. They don’t come cheap, but these ingredients are hard to find in Japan. The food is fresh and clean with healthy portions of meat and you are kept entertained by Tiny Desk concerts on loop on the TV. Just looking at all of the owner’s paraphernalia will also keep you busy. If you get to meet him (when he’s not serving tacos from his truck around town) he’s great vibes. A wide range of spirits including tequila and mezcal are also on offer.  

Yet another cosy coffee shop with great cake selections and pour over/ espresso in the neighborhood. It’speaceful yet there is always a steady flow of customers. The interiors are particularly appealing- high ceilings and an almost modernist/ mid century feel and a no laptop policy.