Within Paris's exceptional gallery of Bourse de Commerce lies not only the acclaimed François Pinault collection but also the former corn exchange, or halle aux grains, now the Michelin-acclaimed restaurant headed by Michel and Sébastien Bras. A sequence of four salty and two sweet dishes can be chosen from the “balade” (stroll) menu at lunch and an additional “jardins” (garden) menu as soon as dusk settles. Hake is griddled with aniseed butter, fennel, coral-soaked lentils and a barley froth and veal sweetbreads are roasted in buckwheat butter and served with fiddly swirls of shaved carrot from la Ferme du Perche. Pudding is no meagre affair. A whole oat financier dense with glutinously sweet Williams pear is enough to make one purr and the mille-feuille, with Madagascar vanilla cream and candied strawberries, is nothing less than a masterpiece.