New Orleans operates on its own logic and always has. The French Quarter is louder than you expect and smaller than it looks on a map; Frenchmen Street on a Tuesday night has more live music per square metre than most cities manage on a Saturday; and the food, from a bowl of gumbo at a counter to a white-tablecloth Creole dinner in the Garden District, is unlike anything else in America. The city has a complicated, layered history that it does not shy away from, and a capacity for joy that is entirely its own. Come hungry. Come curious. Come ready for a late night.
