Most people know Guerrero only as the state that contains Acapulco, which is a little like knowing Andalusia only for its airport. The Pacific coastline here runs wild and largely undeveloped beyond the resort cities, with surf breaks that have been drawing serious wave riders to Zihuatanejo and Troncones for decades. The old fishing village of Zihuatanejo itself, somehow still intact alongside its larger neighbour Ixtapa, has the unhurried quality of somewhere that has seen tourism arrive and largely declined to reorganise itself around it. Inland, the colonial city of Taxco clings to a hillside above its silver mines with a Baroque cathedral that would stop traffic in any country. Guerrero rewards those who come looking for more than the obvious stretch of sand.

