Not the Dominican Republic. Not Dominique in Guadeloupe. Dominica is its own thing entirely, and the distinction matters. Where most Caribbean islands sold themselves to the beach resort decades ago, this one kept the rainforest, the volcanic peaks, the boiling lake steaming quietly in the interior, and the rivers running cold and clear through gorges that see very few visitors. The diving is among the finest in the region. The hiking is serious. Roseau is a small, unpretentious capital that gets on with its day. Dominica is for people who find the standard Caribbean offer vaguely unsatisfying. It will not disappoint them.

