A wine lunch? An eight-course dinner menu? It's a yes from us, particularly if we're offered a stool at Eleanore. Here the bread course is your traditional english muffin, the trout is made confit and the mackerel is served with a deliciously, smoked kipper dashi. 

Pascal & Co. is a tiny vintage boutique that feels more like someone’s very stylish living room. Founder Asta Petkunaite sources clothing, antiques and homewares from her travels – pieces that might span the last hundred years, from wool coats and silk blouses to curious ceramics and objets d’art. Many items are lovingly repaired or restored before hitting the rails.

Just off Leith Walk, ramen bowls share the stage with punchy Asian-influenced small plates at Mirin. The kitchen happily blurs borders – Scottish ingredients meeting chilli oil, miso and citrusy broths. One night it might be hand-ripped noodles with venison ragù; another, dumplings swimming in shiitake broth or monkfish with passionfruit and seaweed.

Seasonal bites, some sell-out pastries and sensational coffee, that' Ante in a nutshell. Perched just below Spry Wines, this daytime restaurant and bakery is our go-to for a spiced honey flat white with a hand laminated pain suisse on the side. The smoked salmon piled high in the seaweed brioche, fennel slaw and pickled cucumber is equally scrumptious. Lunch sorted!