There is a penalty that comes with nestling in between the cool-crowd’s Somerset in one direction, and the shiny Cotswolds in the other: an inevitable overshadowing. But there, perhaps, lies south Wiltshire’s secret. To the west of the sky-high spire of Salisbury Cathedral, and south of hazy Salisbury Plain is the Nadder Valley: a pocket of the West Country where sleepy thatched cottages dot amongst the chalk downland and water meadows.


