A seriously smart restaurant with rooms in the sleepy Somerset town of South Brewham. The centrepiece is the glossy floor-to-ceiling kitchen stage looking onto a meadow garden and the Fresian dairy cows in the field beyond. The dinner menu by chef Merlin Labron-Johnson's centres around two fairly mini no-dig farm plots. There might be intense cold tomato water with a pearlescent drop of fig leaf oil floating on top, served with fermented potato brioche, labneh and tomato jelly. Or a light, crisp lobster tempura served with salted egg yolk and sorrel is an unsurprising highlight. There are just four bedrooms upstairs, done up in a milky palette with chunky bedside tables from trees felled nearby and stylish Maison Osip toiletries in brown bottles. Osip 2.0 may be a true slow burn of the slow food movement but it’s full of intention, and it’s only just getting started.



