There’s a free sauna by the tidal pool on Walpole Bay, run by the skincare brand formerly known as Haeckels, but this one on the Main Sands has more reliable hours. There’s a barrel sauna and a glass-fronted electric sauna: the latter has better views, but we prefer the vibe and heat in the barrel, where it’s customary to wear gnome-like pointy felt hats for heat regulation, and to take a dip every 15 minutes – in the cold-water barrels or the sea.

Once a fairly grotty corner boozer near the train station, a team of four locals – including Jamie Bishop and Richard Henson of Fleet Architects, who also reimagined the Fort Road Hotel – are behind The Shakespeare’s recent reinvention. With formica, bare walls and wood panelling, the understated vibe is that of a beautifully elevated working men’s club that does Top Cuvée wines and classic cocktails as well as Guinness and Taytos – best consumed after a sauna on the beach across the road.



