Around the corner from Smithfield meat market, this former smokehouse is an institution of the British nose-to-tail movement. Opened in 1994 by Fergus Henderson (husband of Margot Henderson, chef patron of Rochelle Canteen), it serves simple plates such as mince on dripping toast and roast bone marrow salad. Some recipes have been on the menu for 30 years, and have inspired a generation of chefs by defining the term Modern British. If you visit just one restaurant in London, this should probably be it.




