There's a friendly competition between bars to see who can make the best mid-morning sandwich (the ritual of almuerzo), and Kiosko La Pérgola often comes up trumps. The greasy spoon-style kiosk sits beside a busy roundabout, and people queue down the street to secure a terrace table. Order the superbombón: a chewy baguette stuffed with pork, cheese, mushrooms, mayo and chips. Beers are customary, as is finishing on a cremaet, a coffee made with lemon and cinnamon-infused rum.




