Cagliari
in Southern Sardinia

A breath of fresh air in Cagliari’s food scene, Aurea is a contemporary osteria from chef Teresa Galanti, who grew up in the northern city of Castelsardo in a family of fishermen. Opened in 2025 with pastry chef Luna Püz Olivares, this intimate spot puts Sardinia’s sea and seasons front and centre, with plenty of fermentation, preservation and house-made touches along the way. Think fish charcuterie with whipped butter and sourdough, or the catch of the day paired with fermented cherries and ponzu.

Overlooking Piazza Yenne, the elegant Caffè Svizzero has been a city institution since 1901. Recently renovated, it remains a go-to meeting spot for locals, who gather beneath the wide outdoor parasols or inside at marble tables over espresso or spritz (often with a copy of L'Unione Sarda in hand). Open from breakfast through dinner, it serves custard-filled cornetti and pizzette sfoglia (flaky puff pastries topped with tomato, capers and anchovies) alongside Danish pastries and an extra-sweet Vietnamese iced coffee.

Corso Dodici has been a favourite local address since opening in 2013. Part bistro, part cocktail spot, it pairs comforting Sardinian flavours with contemporary flair – from silky cacio e pepe to tender octopus served on a smooth chickpea cream. Inside, warm wood, soft lighting and vintage objects create an inviting, slightly retro atmosphere where a quick dinner easily turns into a long, convivial evening.

Set on a quiet residential street just beyond Cagliari’s historic centre, Villa Fanny occupies a restored early-20th-century villa surrounded by manicured gardens. Inside, exposed wooden beams and airy rooms open onto lawns dotted with white wrought-iron tables and a glass-covered veranda with its distinctive black-and-white tiled floor. Curated by owner Lucina Cellino and named after her mother, the hotel doubles as a small cultural hub, hosting exhibitions, readings and gatherings that reflect a family passion for art. By evening, the garden fills with locals and guests lingering over aperitivo beneath the shade of the trees.

Usually, Cagliari’s café scene tends to stick to tradition. That’s the opposite of what pastry chef Gabriele Giambastiani set out to do with Matrice, a contemporary pasticceria agricola in Piazza Yenne. With its open, glass-walled lab, the space invites passersby into a literal sweet-watching: croissants, cinnamon rolls, and delicate mignons are crafted in full view. Rooted in a farm-to-pastry ethos and set within warm sandstone and olive wood interiors, breakfast and aperitivo are served daily – best paired with the signature Caffè Matrice, where a melting praline turns espresso into dessert.

Tucked beside the marble exterior of the Chiesa Collegiata di Sant’Anna, this small spot keeps Sardinia’s deep bread traditions alive. Run by the Pintus brothers, it gives a contemporary twist to the island's shepherd dishes – most famously pani frattau, where crisp carasau bread is softened in broth, layered with tomato and aged pecorino. Other local classics appear too, including zichi topped with slow-cooked meat stew ghisadu.