Most visitors to Greece head straight for the coast. Arcadia quietly thanks them for it. Up in the Peloponnese interior, the landscape shifts into something altogether different: cool pine forests, the deep cut of the Lousios Gorge, and villages of grey stone where the kafeneion closes when the owner feels like it. The Menalon Trail links eight communities across mountain terrain and is one of the finest walking routes in the country. Order the roast kid, find a guesthouse with a fireplace, and ignore the schedule entirely.

