As formulas go, Recoin edges on the more refined and so naturally comes with a slightly heavier price tag. Albeit, for a couple of euros more we have what can only be described as a sensationally, flavorsome feast. Potato rosti is topped with a creamy shallot and chive dollop and bump of caviar, red mullet is drowned in a rich fennel flower broth and pud takes the form of a vanilla chiffon tart served alongside ribbons of rhubarb sorbet. Fine dining, bistrot de quartier style. Despite the more polished air than Florent Cicolli’s other ventures, Recoin is equally groovy. There are the orange maceration bottles that circulate at €30, the chef of the moment is the self-taught, fashion design student, Julie Della Faille and as soon as the sun sets, Le Marais kitted-locals come marching in seeking a spicy marg with a chipotle-spiced rim.