A tiny bolthole of a restaurant on the Rue Sainte-Marthe; Mana Léon serves only a handful of hungry customers on its dozen or so tables. Exposed brick walls are decorated with antique oil paintings in gilded-gold frames off-shot by a central hanging Thai-designed lamp radiating a golden glow. On the menu? Crispy, perfectly bronzed nems accompanied by a homemade nuoc mam sauce, a green curry is braised in a rich coconut broth and dessert takes the form of sticky rice topped with honey-soaked mango. If you can't cadge a table, get it to go and wander down to the Canal St Martin.




