Val d'Isère is where serious skiers go and where first-timers quickly become serious skiers. The Espace Killy, shared with neighbouring Tignes, offers some of the most varied and challenging terrain in the Alps, and the village itself has evolved into something genuinely stylish without losing the mountain soul that makes it worth the journey. Stone-built chalets line the main street alongside excellent restaurants and a handful of bars that have earned their reputations honestly. The Face de Bellevarde run, venue for the 1992 Olympic downhill, is as good a way to end a ski day as exists anywhere.

