Jodhpur
in Rajasthan

Seen from the ramparts of Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur spreads out below in a sea of indigo: thousands of houses painted blue, a tradition that began with the Brahmin caste and gradually spread until the whole old city took on the colour. The fort itself is one of the finest in India, enormous and surprisingly well-preserved, with views that stretch to the Thar Desert on a clear day. The bazaars beneath it are loud, fragrant, and genuinely navigable. Jodhpur moves fast and asks you to keep up, which makes the rooftop chai at sunset all the more satisfying.