Most people come to Rwanda for the gorillas. Fewer make it to the southwest corner of the country, where one of Africa's oldest and largest montane rainforests covers the hills in an unbroken canopy that has been here since before the last ice age. Nyungwe is extraordinarily rich: thirteen primate species including chimpanzees and Angola colobus troops that number in the hundreds, over 300 bird species, and a canopy walkway that puts you level with the treetops above a valley that seems to go on indefinitely. The trails are well-maintained and the guides are exceptional. It is serious wildlife in a country that has become very good at doing this properly.

