Ed Wilson and Josie Stead, makers of Columbia Road favourite Brawn, are behind this brick-walled Harbour Arm spot, serving Med-influenced small plates of serious quality given the narrowness of the bar-style open kitchen. Happiness is sitting outside on a summer’s evening with a Pantelleria orange wine and a full table: of Cantabrian anchovies, airily magnificent parmesan fritters or red mullet with fennel and fregula. Stay long enough – Wild Turkey 101 Old Fashioneds will help – and you might see the tide fully wax or wane.




